Kingsport Landscaping Services

The process of installing a paver starts with drawing up a plan and identifying the desired design. The next step is to excavate the area where the paver installation will take place and to set out the project markings. The demolition, grading and compaction will be done before installing the base material. After this, you lay out the pavers on top of each other and affix them together with mortar or grout. The final steps involve filling in any gaps and curing your work before applying sealant to it.

Step 1: Draw up a plan and identify desired design

The first thing needed before the installation begins is to draw out a plan for your project. An easy way to do this is to create a drawing of what you want done, or use an existing template from previous projects or from other sources. The next step would be to figure out exactly how many pavers will be needed to complete the job. Once this is finished, you can set out markings on site where each paver needs to go. Make sure that they are placed accurately and match up with your drawings or templates as closely as possible. It will also help if you include measurements in these markings so that it’s easier for everyone who will be working on your project.

Step 2: Excavate the area where the paver installation will take place and set out project markings

After marking out the desired job site, you must excavate it with proper tools to make way for your pavers. You can also use a mixture of sand and gravel in the excavation process, which is usually what gets used when installing pavers onto an existing surface. Grading is necessary in this phase of construction because it will help keep the soil stable once the paver installation begins. Once grading is complete, move on to compaction by tamping down loose dirt or stone material until it’s dense enough to support your pavers properly.

Step 3: Lay out pavers on top of each other and affix them together with mortar or grout

Once the excavation and grading process is finished, it’s time to lay out your pavers on top of each other. Make sure that everything lines up correctly during this step so you can avoid having to go back later and make any changes. You may want to use construction adhesive or another type of mortar to secure solid pavers so they stay in place without shifting around over time. If you plan on using hollow paver blocks, then grout will be a more suitable option for securing these units.

Step 4: Fill in gaps and cure your work

After getting the job site ready as described above, fill in any gaps between pavers with either sand or filler material from a bag or tub. You can also use mortar to fill in gaps if necessary, but keep in mind that it will need curing time before sealant is applied over the pavers. Curing time takes anywhere from 24 hours up to several days depending on what materials are being used and how thick they are.

Step 5: Apply sealant

The final step is to apply a watertight sealant to your new paver installation. The most common types of sealants for this type of surface include acrylics, polyurethanes or epoxy resin. Acrylics are best for basic protection against wear and tear while polyurethanes provide more comprehensive defense with added slip resistance as well. Epoxy resin needs no additional treatment after installation like other types, but it can be more difficult to maintain. The sealant will also need curing time before it’s ready for use.

Step 6: Apply pavers to desired area and complete installation

With the sealant applied over your paver installation, you’re now ready to install the pavers onto their designated area. This may involve applying mortar or grout to affix them in place depending on what type of material they are made from. Once everything is set up according to your plan, you only need to wait for maintenance procedures like resealing or power washing so that paver surfaces remain intact for as long as possible. If at some point any issues do arise with your new paver surface, then you can always hire professionals to come in and fix them.

If you need a small amount of paving, or if the paving will be easy to complete for an experienced DIYer, you can try to do it yourself. However, this doesn’t mean that you should do the entire project DIY – if the project is very large or has complicated pieces then it would be better to use a contractor or another service. This could be the difference between uneven patios, broken seals, and unnecessary repairs shortly after installing the pavers yourself. Also, if you are installing a paver wall or retaining wall, we highly suggest hiring a paving contractor, as they need to be more durable and safe.

Check the joints between borders and pavers with a 4-foot level. If they need to be reset, use a cold chisel and pry bar to loosen the joint and then drive in a stainless steel expansion bolt.

Remove any weeds that show up. Apply weed killer near the base of weeds and light with a match. Respray weeds as necessary; check for desired results before using any more weed killer.

Fill the joints between pavers with polymeric sand or lightweight backfill material such as pea gravel or perlite, if needed. When working with polymeric sand, use a shovel to pour it into the joints until it is 2 inches full of sand at all times. Do not press on top of the sand with the shovel or pavers.

To remove and reset a paver, use a cold chisel and pry bar to separate it from its base. Do not hit the paver directly — it will crack. Reset mortared pavers by laying them on their sides so that they can be reinserted into the mortar joint at an angle of 60 degrees. Place spacers under each edge of the stone for stabilization while you work with it. Fill around each joint tightly with moistened mortar mix and use pointed wooden shims to pack excess material against each side of stone before applying weight to press in firmly. Wet material is easier to reshape than dry material because it contains more moisture, therefore reducing the chance of a poor fit.

To replace a paver without mortar, cut the old one into manageable pieces with a diamond blade saw. If you are using tree branches or other scrap wood to chock up the pavers while they are being worked on, make sure that it is pressure treated lumber. Let pavers dry for 24 hours before moving them.

Use steel-toed boots and safety equipment when working with heavy cement pavers because of their weight. Also wear gloves to protect your hands from possible cuts by sharp shards of broken materials. Use either polymeric sand or lightweight backfill material such as pea gravel or perlite to fill around joints between pavers after removing and replacing them in order to maintain level surface.

The cost of pavers can range from $1-$6 per square foot. Factors that contribute to the price include whether or not there is a pattern, style of paver, trim pieces, etc. that is desired and the quality of the materials being used. Cost also varies depending on how many paver squares are needed to cover a particular area. For example, natural stone or limestone may be more expensive than concrete or clay brick pavers because they come in fewer colors and typically require more maintenance over time after installation versus concrete paver installations which do not have to be sealed as frequently.